Leather has always been more than a material in India. It is a canvas of cultural expression, a symbol of heritage, and a bridge between necessity and artistry. From the ceremonial footwear of emperors to today’s contemporary reinterpretations, Indian leathercraft has traversed centuries, evolving alongside dynasties, traditions, and global aesthetics.

In the modern era, leather continues to carry the aura of prestige. As designer Ralph Lauren once remarked, “Style is very personal. It has nothing to do with fashion. Fashion is over quickly. Style is forever.” Few materials embody that timelessness as gracefully as leather. In India, that sense of permanence is woven with centuries of royal patronage, artisanal brilliance, and regional traditions that continue to shape its enduring appeal.

Leather in Ancient India: The Earliest Expressions

Archaeological evidence suggests that leathercraft in India dates back to the Indus Valley Civilization (3300–1300 BCE). Animal hides were used for protective clothing, footwear, and storage. Ancient texts such as the Rigveda and Atharvaveda make passing references to leather, often in association with warriors’ armor, hunting, and ritual objects.

By the Mauryan and Gupta eras, leather had become essential not just for survival but for status. Saddlery, footwear, and belts were crafted with increasing refinement, with artisans specializing in tanning and dyeing techniques.

Royal Patronage and the Rise of Courtly Leather

India’s royal courts became the patrons of leather artisans. In Rajasthan, leather was used for ceremonial saddles, intricately painted shields, and decorative water carriers (mashqs). Kings and nobles considered leather not merely utilitarian but symbolic of power and prestige.

The Marathas, with their equestrian culture, demanded saddles, bridles, and footwear of exceptional craftsmanship. In contrast, the Rajput courts of north India encouraged artisans to embellish even ordinary objects—cases, writing pads, and pouches—with floral and geometric designs that mirrored the artistry of palace frescoes.

The Mughal Role in Elevating Indian Leather Craft

When the Mughals established their empire (1526–1857), they introduced new aesthetic and technical dimensions to leathercraft. Mughal ateliers transformed everyday objects into expressions of imperial splendor.

• Footwear: The Khussa and the Jutti
  The Mughal khussa—a curved-toe shoe made of supple leather and embroidered with gold, pearls, and silk—became a hallmark of courtly fashion. It later evolved into the jutti and mojari, still popular across north India today.
• Bookbinding as Luxury
  Mughal libraries preserved manuscripts in leather covers embossed with floral arabesques, Quranic calligraphy, and gilded ornamentation. These bindings were as precious as the texts they protected.
• Military & Ceremonial Gear
  Shields, quivers, and saddles were crafted from hardened leather, painted and gilded with exquisite motifs. Even instruments of war bore the elegance of courtly art.
• Everyday Refinement
  From ornate writing cases to jewel boxes, leather was used to cover objects of daily use, elevating the mundane into art.

The Mughal aesthetic blended Persian elegance, Islamic geometry, and Indian motifs, giving Indian leatherwork a distinct identity. Mughal crafts were objects where the everyday and the exalted intersected.

Regional Traditions: Living Legacies of Craft

India’s regional leather traditions remain cultural treasures, many of which still thrive.

Kolhapuri Chappals (Maharashtra)

The most iconic of Indian leather footwear, Kolhapuri chappals trace their origins to the 13th century. Handcrafted in Kolhapur, they are made from tanned leather and celebrated for durability and comfort. Traditionally dyed with natural oils and polished to a golden tan, they became part of everyday royal and aristocratic wear. Today, they blend heritage with global appeal, often reinterpreted on luxury fashion runways.

Jodhpuri Mojaris (Rajasthan)

A descendant of the Mughal khussa, Jodhpuri mojaris are richly embroidered and often paired with royal attire. Each pair, stitched entirely by hand, is an emblem of Rajasthan’s artisanal finesse.

Madhya Pradesh, Andhra Pradesh & Karnataka – Leather Puppetry

In southern states like Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh, leather took on a performative role. Translucent, painted leather puppets were crafted for shadow theatre traditions such as Tholu Bommalata and Togalu Gombeyaata, where mythological tales came alive under oil lamps.

Tamil Nadu & Bengal – Utility and Ornament

In Tamil Nadu, artisans crafted sturdy yet beautiful bags and pouches for traders, while Bengal developed painted leather masks and accessories rooted in folk traditions.

Colonial India and Global Leather Trade

The arrival of European traders in the 17th century opened new markets for Indian leather. Portuguese, Dutch, and later British companies exported Indian leather goods to Europe.

During the British Raj, leather was industrialized, often displacing traditional artisans. Yet, certain crafts—Kolhapuri footwear, Rajasthani mojaris, and shadow puppetry—remained resilient, surviving as cultural expressions while others became part of colonial commerce.

The Contemporary Renaissance of Indian Leather

Today, India’s leather sector is both a global industry and a repository of artisanal heritage. Luxury designers and traditional craftsmen coexist, drawing from centuries of skill.

• Artisanal Revival: Heritage footwear like Kolhapuri chappals and mojaris have been reimagined by designers, from local ateliers to international catwalks.
• Sustainable Practices: Vegetable tanning, once dismissed as archaic, is returning as a sustainable alternative to chemical tanning.
• Global Luxury: Indian brands are now competing internationally, placing emphasis on craftsmanship, durability, and heritage narratives.

There’s nothing like leather. It becomes part of you, it takes on the years, the marks, the adventures. In the Indian context, this sentiment reflects both the endurance of the craft and its evolving prestige.

Leather as a Luxury Statement

Leather’s enduring presence in Indian history illustrates more than utility—it embodies status, longevity, and timeless style. From royal courts to contemporary wardrobes, leather has remained a symbol of refinement.

The modern luxury consumer is not just purchasing a bag or a pair of shoes; they are investing in a tradition that spans the Mughal ateliers, the Kolhapuri workshops, and the artisan clusters of Rajasthan. They are carrying centuries of Indian heritage, burnished with the elegance of time.

Conclusion: From Palaces to Present

The story of leathercraft in India is one of transformation—of a material that began as survival and rose to symbolize opulence. Patronized by kings, refined by Mughals, celebrated in regions like Kolhapur and Rajasthan, and now embraced by global fashion, Indian leather remains a canvas where history and luxury converge.

In an era of fast fashion, handcrafted leather stands apart—whispering of permanence, narrating heritage, and embodying timeless sophistication. It is a story that continues to unfold, one handcrafted stitch at a time.